If you are shopping for a letterman jacket, one of the first choices you will face is material. Do you go for the traditional wool body with leather sleeves, or an all-leather jacket? Both are classic, both can last for years, and both have their own look and feel. This guide breaks down the differences so you can choose the one that fits your lifestyle, climate and style.
A Quick Look at Letterman Jacket Construction
A traditional letterman (or varsity) jacket has a few defining features: a snap-button front, a rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband (often striped), welt pockets and contrasting sleeves. The main material choices are:
- Wool body with leather sleeves – the original "hybrid" design.
- All-wool – wool body and wool sleeves, usually lighter and more affordable.
- All-leather – leather body and leather sleeves for a bolder, more premium look.
You can browse examples of each in our Letterman Jackets and Leather Jackets collections.
Wool Letterman Jackets
Look and feel
Wool—especially dense, felted wool often called melton—has a soft, matte, slightly textured finish. It gives the jacket the authentic collegiate look most people associate with the style. Wool also takes colour beautifully, so you will find it in rich navy, maroon, forest green and black.
Warmth and comfort
Wool is naturally insulating and breathable. It keeps you warm in cool weather without feeling as stiff as leather, and it is comfortable right out of the box—there is no break-in period.
Durability and care
Wool is durable but can pill or attract lint over time, and it does not like water as much as leather does. A clothes brush, careful storage and professional cleaning when needed will keep it looking sharp.
Best for
- People who want the classic, heritage letterman look
- Cool, dry climates and everyday wear
- Shoppers who prefer a lighter, softer jacket
Leather Letterman Jackets
Look and feel
Leather gives a letterman jacket a sleeker, more premium appearance. Depending on the finish, it can look smooth and glossy or soft and natural. Over time, quality leather develops a patina—subtle changes in colour and sheen that make each jacket unique.
Warmth and weather resistance
Leather is excellent at blocking wind and handles light drizzle better than wool. It can feel slightly heavier and less breathable, so it is ideal for brisk days and evenings.
Durability and care
Well-made leather is extremely durable and resists abrasion. It does need occasional conditioning to stay supple, and it should be kept away from heat sources and prolonged direct sunlight. Expect a short break-in period as the leather softens and shapes to you.
Best for
- People who want a bold, modern statement piece
- Windy or changeable weather
- Shoppers who want a jacket that ages with character
The Hybrid: Wool Body, Leather Sleeves
The hybrid design combines the strengths of both materials. The wool body keeps the jacket breathable and comfortable, while leather sleeves add durability at the elbows and cuffs—the areas that get the most wear. Visually, the contrast between matte wool and smooth leather is what makes the classic letterman jacket so recognisable. If you are torn between the two, a hybrid is often the best of both worlds.
Side-by-Side Comparison
| Factor | Wool | Leather |
|---|---|---|
| Look | Matte, classic, collegiate | Sleek, premium, statement |
| Comfort | Soft from day one | Short break-in period |
| Warmth | Warm and breathable | Warm and wind-resistant |
| Weather | Best in dry conditions | Handles light rain and wind better |
| Ageing | Can pill if not brushed | Develops a patina over time |
| Care | Brush, store well, dry clean | Wipe, condition, dry clean if needed |
How to Choose the Right One for You
Think about your climate
If you live somewhere with mild, dry autumns, wool will keep you comfortable. If you face wind, chilly evenings or occasional showers, leather or a hybrid with leather sleeves is the more practical pick.
Think about your style
Love a vintage, campus-inspired look? Choose wool or a hybrid. Prefer a sharper, edgier outfit that works with all-black looks or boots? Leather is a natural fit. For style ideas, see our guide to wearing varsity jackets, and explore our men's and women's collections.
Think about how you'll wear it
If you will wear it most days, consider how much maintenance you are happy with. Both materials last for years with basic care, but leather tends to shrug off daily scuffs more easily.
Don't forget fit
Whatever material you choose, fit matters most. Leather has very little stretch, while wool has a touch more give. Measure your chest and compare with our Size Guide before ordering. If you plan to layer a hoodie underneath, consider sizing up.
Other Styles Worth Considering
If you like the varsity look but want something more streamlined, a bomber jacket offers a similar sporty heritage with a zip front and a cleaner silhouette. Browse our Bomber Jackets to compare.
The Bottom Line
There is no wrong answer—just the right jacket for you. Wool delivers classic collegiate character and everyday comfort; leather offers a premium, weather-ready statement that improves with age; and the hybrid gives you a bit of both. Whichever you choose, every order from The Varsity Jackets ships free within the US and comes with 30-day returns, so you can buy with confidence.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a leather letterman jacket warmer than wool?
Both are warm. Wool insulates well and breathes, while leather is better at blocking wind. For very cold days, either works best with a layer underneath.
Can I wear a leather jacket in the rain?
Leather handles light drizzle, but it should not be soaked. If it gets wet, let it air-dry at room temperature away from heaters, then condition it.
Which is easier to look after?
Leather is easier to wipe clean day to day; wool needs occasional brushing. Both benefit from proper hangers and professional cleaning when needed.